Start by matching the old code to the new one, because the manual in your drawer and the display on your wall may not use the same style. E0 became EH 00, E1 became EL 01, E3 became EH 03, EC became EL 0C, and the P codes became PC 00 through PC 04. Senville's support articles pair them in their titles, which is the quickest confirmation that you are reading the right row. The table below gives both.
Senville units are built on the Midea inverter platform, which is why the same code table turns up on Midea-badged units and on other Midea-built brands. No other guide on this site covers that platform yet, so if you own a Midea-built unit under a different name this table is a fair starting point. Check it against your own manual before acting on it, because each brand chooses which codes its display shows.
Many Senville systems in Ontario were bought online and installed by the owner, and two codes follow that pattern closely. E1 or EL 01 on a new install is usually the interconnecting cable: Senville's diagnostic says terminals 1, 2, 3 and ground must match colour for colour at both ends. EC or EL 0C in the first days is usually a flare joint that was never leak-tight, because the board watches the indoor coil after each start and shuts down if it does not change temperature the way a charged system would. Connecting gauges or adding refrigerant takes an ODP card in Ontario, which is covered in whether you can install a mini-split yourself.
Codes differ between the LETO, AURA and older Senville series, and a garbled display is sometimes just a temperature reading. Use this page to understand the fault, then confirm it in the manual for your series and on the wiring diagram inside the outdoor unit's cover, which is the final word if the two disagree. Our Senville mini-split repair page explains what we can do on a unit bought online, and you can message us the code with a photo of the nameplate.
Senville mini-split heat pump codes, decoded
| Code | What it means | Safe? | Try first | When to call |
|---|---|---|---|---|
dF | Defrost mode. Normal in cold weather: Senville says it typically lasts 5 to 15 minutes, with little or no warm air and the outdoor fan stopped. | keep running | Let the cycle finish. Do not switch modes or flip the breaker to hurry it. | If dF stays on for more than 30 minutes or heating never resumes. |
CL | Filter cleaning reminder, shown for about 15 seconds at power-on, or the active clean function running. | keep running | Wash and dry the filters. | Not needed. |
FP | Low-temperature heating: the 8°C freeze-protection heating function is active. A setting, not a fault. | keep running | Turn the 8°C heating function off at the remote if you did not mean to select it. | Not needed. |
-- | Mode conflict on a multi-zone system. One head is set to heat while another is set to cool. | keep running | Put every indoor unit in the same mode. | Only if the dashes remain once every head matches. |
E0 / EH 00 | Indoor EEPROM malfunction. The indoor board's main chip is not getting a response from its memory chip. | turn it off | A two-minute breaker reset, once. | If it returns. Senville's fix is a new indoor control board. |
E1 / EL 01 | Communication error between the indoor and outdoor units. | turn it off | Breaker off for two minutes, then on. On a new install, compare the wire colours on terminals 1, 2, 3 and ground at both ends with the power off. | If the wiring matches and the code stays. The signal voltage, the reactor and both boards need testing. |
E2 / EH 02 | Zero-crossing signal detection error on the indoor board. | turn it off | One reset at the breaker. | If it repeats. Senville lists the indoor main board as the repair. |
E3 / EH 03 | Indoor fan speed out of control. The blower is not turning at the speed the board commands. | turn it off | Power off, then check that nothing is rubbing or jamming the blower wheel. | If the wheel is free. The fan motor or the indoor board has failed. |
E4 / EH 60 | Indoor room temperature sensor (T1) is open or short circuited. | turn it off | One reset at the breaker. | If it returns. The sensor or its connection at the board needs replacing. |
E5 / EH 61 | Indoor coil temperature sensor (T2) is open or short circuited. | turn it off | One reset at the breaker. | If it returns. This sensor also feeds the leak-detection logic, so do not run without it. |
EC / EL 0C | Refrigerant leak detection: the system lacks refrigerant, or the indoor coil sensor is misreading. | turn it off | Senville's first step is power off for 15 minutes, then restart once. | If it returns. The joints need a leak test and the charge has to be weighed in. |
F1 / EC 53 | Outdoor ambient temperature sensor (T4) is open or short circuited. | turn it off | Nothing at home. | Soon. The outdoor board cannot plan defrost or capacity without it. |
F2 / EC 52 | Outdoor coil temperature sensor (T3) is open or short circuited. | turn it off | Nothing at home. | Soon, and sooner in winter, since the defrost logic depends on this sensor. |
F3 / EC 54 | Compressor discharge temperature sensor is open or short circuited. | turn it off | Nothing at home. | Soon. The compressor has lost its overheating watchdog. |
F4 / EC 51 | Outdoor EEPROM parameter error, or lost communication between the outdoor main chip and the compressor drive chip. | turn it off | A single two-minute reset. | If it returns. Senville's fix is a new outdoor control board. |
F5 / EC 07 | Outdoor fan speed out of control. | turn it off | With the breaker off, clear ice, sticks or debris from the fan blade and check that it spins freely. | If the blade is free and the code returns. The motor or the outdoor board is at fault. |
P0 / PC 00 | IPM module protection. The inverter module that drives the compressor has tripped on over-current. | turn it off | One reset. On a new install, confirm both service valves are fully open. | If it repeats. Fan, charge, compressor windings and the outdoor board are checked in that order. |
P1 / PC 01 | Over-voltage or under-voltage protection. | turn it off | Check that the circuit matches the voltage printed on the outdoor unit's nameplate. | If the supply is correct. The reactor and outdoor board need testing, and supply problems need an electrician. |
P2 / PC 02 | High temperature protection of the compressor top or the inverter module. | turn it off | Clear the outdoor coil and give the unit open space to breathe. | If it trips again with clear airflow. Low charge and a failed outdoor fan are the usual causes. |
P4 / PC 04 | Inverter compressor drive error. | turn it off | One reset only. | Book a visit. The compressor windings and drive board have to be measured. |
The codes that usually mean a real repair
EC or EL 0C — a leak at a flare
On a self-installed Senville the leak is at a flare nut far more often than in a coil. A flare made with a worn tool or tightened without a torque wrench can pass a soap test on day one and still lose the charge over a month. The repair is to recover what is left, remake the flare, pressure-test with nitrogen, pull a deep vacuum and weigh in the full charge. That sits in our published band for refrigerant leak repair and recharge, $300–$800 and up.
E1 or EL 01 — interconnect wiring or a board
Crossed conductors, a loose terminal screw or the wrong cable type between the two units account for most E1 calls on new installs, and correcting that is a short visit at the low end of the $150–$800 range most repairs fall in. On a unit that ran for years before showing E1, the fault is more often a control board, where our published band is $400–$800. The diagnostic visit is $90–$150, credited to the repair if you proceed.
P0 or P4 — the inverter drive and compressor
Senville's own checklist for these codes on a new install reads like a list of installation shortcuts: incomplete vacuuming, moisture or air in the lines, a kinked pipe, service valves not fully opened. On a system that has been running, the checks move to the outdoor fan, the charge, the compressor windings and finally the outdoor board; read your warranty paperwork before anyone opens the refrigerant circuit. A board is a $400–$800 repair in our published bands, while a compressor with uneven or grounded windings changes the question to repair against a new single-zone system at $4,000–$7,000 installed.
Licensed technicians, a written price before the repair, no overtime charges.
Common questions
How do I reset a Senville mini-split after an error code?
Senville's diagnostics start the same way for most codes: turn the breaker off for two minutes and turn it back on. The LETO user manual adds that a flashing code may clear by itself if you wait about ten minutes. If the same code is back after one reset, stop there, note the code and the conditions, and have it diagnosed instead of cycling the power again.
I installed my Senville myself and it shows EC after a few minutes. What now?
Turn it off and leave it off. EC so soon after start-up means the indoor coil is not behaving like a charged system, and the likeliest reason is a flare that leaked or service valves that were never fully opened. Check the valves. If they are open, the lines need a nitrogen pressure test and a proper vacuum, which is work for a technician with an ODP card.
Is EL 0C the same code as EC?
Yes. Senville's support article is titled for both and treats them as one fault: older displays show EC, current ones show EL 0C, sometimes read as EL OC. The same goes for E1 and EL 01, E3 and EH 03, and P4 and PC 04. A code beginning EH C, such as EH C1, is different: on newer models it comes from a refrigerant sensor in the indoor unit.
Why does my Senville show dF and stop heating?
It is melting frost off the outdoor coil. Senville describes a defrost of 5 to 15 minutes with little or no warm air indoors, the outdoor fan stopped and steam or water coming off the outdoor unit. It asks owners not to switch the system off, change modes or reset breakers during the cycle. Call for service if dF runs longer than 30 minutes or heat does not return.
Will a technician work on a mini-split I bought online?
Yes, with two conditions that are worth knowing before you call. The fault has to be diagnosed on site, so there is a $90–$150 diagnostic visit even when the cause turns out to be the installation. Parts for online brands are ordered from the seller or distributor, which can add days. Our heat pump repair service covers diagnosis, leak repair and recharge on these units, and the Gree code guide is the reference if your unit is a Gree instead.